My 9 Tips for Sewing with Stretch Fabrics

Have you always wanted to learn how to sew with stretch fabrics? It's a good skill to learn because lots of clothes are made with knits-cotton lycra, double-brushed poly, french terry, etc. I don't want you to be scared anymore, so today I'm sharing nine easy tips for sewing with stretch fabrics. I'll show you how to navigate wavy hems and popped seams, and share the best stitch choices.

Sewing with Stretch Fabrics - 9 Tips

Stretch fabrics are often quick to sew, especially jersey knits, because they don't generally unravel. That means you don't have to worry about finishing the seams unless you want to. If you have a serger or an overlock machine, you can even stitch and finish your seams at once.

Here are a few basic things to remember about sewing with stretch fabrics to get started:

Before starting any sewing project, prewash your fabric to prevent shrinkage when the project is finished. Knit fabrics sometimes shrink even more than woven fabrics! However, be sure to check the manufacturer's washing instructions first.

When copying your pattern, choose the direction of your fabric wisely. Not all stretch fabrics have the same amount of stretch in all directions. The direction of the greatest stretch has to go across your body, rather than up and down. This will give you the best fit.

Don't focus too much on lining up the selvage edges when laying out your fabric. Use the pattern, stripe, or weave to ensure the fold is straight and your fabric is laying nice and smooth.

Now I'm ready to dive into my nine tips for sewing stretch fabrics. These tips apply to all knits, but keep in mind that you should always test a few stitches on some scraps of fabric before sewing your project together so you can adjust the tension and stitch length for your needs.

1. Use Soap Slivers as a Marking Tool

If you need to transfer pattern markings to your fabric, it can be a challenge to use regular chalk or marking pens because the fabric can drag and bunch up. I prefer to use soap slivers on very stretchy fabrics because they leave smooth marks, especially if you have to draw long lines. Give it a try!

2. Cut Stretchy Fabric with a Rotary Cutter

I always get better results cutting stretch fabrics when I use my rotary cutter instead of fabric shears. The fabric often bunches and moves while I'm cutting, creating jagged edges and cuts that aren't precise. Not everyone agrees, but if you've never tried it, I would certainly give it a go! I get cleaner and more accurate cut lines. Just use some pattern weights, your cutting mat, and if you have straight lines, use your ruler and cut. Keep the fabric relaxed as you cut, don't stretch it out.

3. Stabilize Stretchy Fabric Before Sewing

Sewing with stretch fabrics is easier when you stabilize the fabric in certain places, like around the hemline or the neckline, or along the edges to prevent curling. Depending on what you need, you can use fusible interfacing with a 1-way, 2-way or 4-way stretch; knit stay tape; iron-on bias tape with reinforcement; or starch spray. You can also use a stabilizer at shoulder seams when making a knit top or a dress, give a seam or hem a bit of support and rebound, or to create a nice sharp edge on a knit.

4. Use Basting Stitches or Clips Don't Use Pins!

Try to avoid using pins on knit fabric because they can leave holes or cause runs in some types of knits. Sewing clips are a great alternative to pins for sewing with stretch fabrics.

I also like to use basting stitches when sewing stretch fabrics, especially on hems or when trying to hold tricky pieces together. It prevents them from twisting out of shape when you put in the permanent stitches. The basting stitches can be applied by hand or machine.

5. Don't Stretch Out Your Fabric While Sewing

Keep your knit fabric relaxed as you sew. Don't pull it toward or away from you. Let your sewing machine do the work! Also support the weight of your project while you sew. If your project falls to the ground while passing through your machine, your fabric will stretch out.

Even when you're being careful, sometimes seams can get a little stretched out. If this happens to you, hover an iron over the fabric and apply steam to the stretched seam to help it shrink again into its intended size and shape.

6. Choose the Right Needle for Stretch Fabrics

Don't use a universal sewing machine needle on stretch fabrics. It can leave holes and cause all sorts of other problems. Use a ball point needle (also called a jersey needle) for loosely woven knits or sweater type fabrics. They have a rounded point that gently pushes through the fabric without catching or cutting through the fibers, and thus avoiding runs and tears.

For super stretchy fabric & tightly knitted jersey fabrics with a significant amount of spandex or lycra, like active or dancewear, use a stretch needle. The eye of this needle is a little higher-meaning a larger loop is created when the machine makes a stitch. This means the stitches can really stretch with the fabric.

(needle chart: courtesy of Wikipedia)

7. Choose a Stretch Stitch on Your Sewing Machine

Use a stretch stitch or long and narrow zig zag stitch instead of a straight stitch so that your seams can stretch with the fabric. If you don't have a stretch stitch on your machine, set your stitch length to the narrowest zigzag setting (0.5) and your stitch length to a medium setting. The slight zigzag will give you the stretch you need.

8. Use an Appropriate Presser Foot for Stretch Fabrics

First of all, let the feed dogs on your sewing machine do their job. Never push or pull your fabric while you are sewing. If you feel like your presser foot is giving too much pressure, dive into your sewing machine manual to see how you can adjust the pressure. If the pressure is set too high, it will stretch out your fabric. It will look rippled. To avoid this, adjust your presser foot pressure. Typically a setting of 1 or lower is appropriate for knit fabrics.